As suggested by @CM_Stewart I use a simple arbor knot (slip knot) with both a figure 8 “stopper knot”, and a “handle knot” as described, diagrammed, in this post awhile back.
When I wind a fluoro line onto a line spool I tighten the slip knot around the spool’s “barrel” to keep everything neat and tidy. The tag end of the line sticks out from the spool’s “flange” so I can I pull on the “handle knot” to open the arbor knot and unwind the line from the spool.
I experimented with braided lines and tried a long PVC tapered line that have a spliced limp braided loop to girth hitch onto the lillian. But I settled on simple fluoro level lines & Tenjo rigs because they’ve worked well for the situations and presentations where Tenkara & Keiryu fixed line rods are better for me than, say a western fly rod & reel or even a spinning rod & reel. As a result, and again at the suggestion of @CM_Stewart I prefer not to have a knot in my lillian to make it very easy to disassemble the entire rod for cleaning and drying; something I have always done with my bamboo, and saltwater graphite flyrods.
A couple of posts later from the one linked above, I mentioned that…
“I read somewhere (here @Gressak ? TBum blog?) that passing the (un-knotted) lillian through the girth hitched braided loop 3 times would securely attach the girth hitch to the lillian. I tried it a couple of times and it seemed to work, but I didn’t hook up with any sizable fish that produced a result I got with the mistake of only passing an (unknotted) lillian through a level line slip knot once”;
i.e. I lost a fish and my entire line.
In the same thread @TenkaraAddict described his method of tying a fixed loop on the end of a level line to girth hitch onto a lillian and said he’d found it is more secure than a braided loop attached to an un-knotted lillian.
So my question is… What is the advantage you’ve found in splicing a Dacron loop to a fluoro level line?